This exhibition explores a key part of the Marubeni Collection: robes used in Noh, a traditional Japanese performing art with centuries of history. Noh was first developed by Zeami, a performer, playwright, and theorist who lived during the Muromachi period (1336–1573); found favor primarily among warlords in the Momoyama period (1573–1573); and, during the Edo period (1603–1868), was highly regarded as a ceremonial art form for the samurai class, enjoying popularity among feudal lords (daimyo).

The Noh robes in the Marubeni Collection were originally acquired in the 1920s to the early 1930s, when Marubeni Shoten (the direct predecessor of the modern Marubeni) founded and supported the Meihin-kai, a study group tasked with collecting and researching traditional Japanese textiles and textile production techniques. In fact, the very first pieces the Meihin-kai acquired were Noh robes, which drew the group’s particular attention as a collective representation of the best traditional Japanese dyeing and weaving techniques. The Meihin-kai went on to acquire and study a wide range of Noh robes, including pieces from the early 17th century through to the early 20th century, to apply the ancient designs and techniques behind their creation to modern kimono production and sales.

The most exquisite of these Noh robes, each of which was carefully chosen for acquisition and preservation by those who came before us, are featured in this exhibition, which offers insight into the profound Japanese sense of beauty hidden within them.