Nanjing

The proud people of Nanjing are teasingly referred to as “nanjing da luobo” in Chinese. Even the locals self-deprecatingly call themselves in this way. “Luobo ” means “radish”, so this expression can be translated as “Nanjingers are big radishes”. “Big radishes” apparently mean “dimwitted country bumpkins with little mind for business.”

According to a survey, 40% of Nanjingers describe themselves as conservative, lacking in creativity, having an unsophisticated way of speaking, and uncivilized. This brings to mind an interesting fact: there isn't a single restaurant here featuring “Nanjing cuisine.” Instead, Nanjingers eat Shanghai cuisine and Hangzhou cuisine, served in the restaurants run by business-minded people from Shanghai and Hangzhou, as if they were proud of those cuisines as their soul food. Moreover, all of those things Japanese people associate with Nanjing—for example, Nanking tamasudare (a form of entertainment using reed screens), Nanking bukuro (gunny sacks), Nanking mame (peanuts), Nanking jou (padlocks)—apparently do not originate from Nanjing, either. I am not sure about the origin of bedbugs (Nanking mushi); but I guess it was the custom long ago to refer to anything Chinese as “Nanking so-and-so.” But the fact that Nanjingers themselves do not find it that strange that they are called “big radish,” and are not that offended by such labels, suggests me certain composure, or a maturity of character.

Situated along the lower reaches of the Yangtse with hills to the south, Nanjing is blessed with greenery and water. In summer it gets so hot that it is referred to as one of the “three big furnaces of China,” the other two being Chongqing and Wuhan; and in winter, Nanjing experiences the fierce cold that is typical of basin regions. Despite this, the people raised here seem to be quite mild-mannered. Perhaps it is a composure and pride born out of Nanjing's long history—longer even than that of Beijing-a history that includes an approximately 440-year period as an ancient capital, spanning several dynasties. Or perhaps, as it sees its economy being quickly outpaced by that of such cities as Shanghai, there is an element of resignation and self-deprecation at work as well. However, they still say that Nanjing should be the capital of China after all, and are redoubling their efforts with renewed energy: clearly, they still have quite a lot of vigor left in them.

Nanjing and Japan are linked by twice-a-week direct flights between Kansai Airport and Nanjing. The mild-mannered people of Nanjing await your arrival.

View of Xuan Wu Lake from atop the city wall Dr. Sun Yat-Sen's Mausoleum (mausoleum of Sun Wen, founder of modern China) Villa of Madame Chiang Kai-Shek Sycamore-lined city street

Marubeni Group magazine "M-SPIRIT" VOL.25 (January, 2005)