Noh robe for young nobleman's role with design of scattered chrysanthemums and linked squares Weft patterning (atsuita karaori) on white silk ground
This is a garment woven in gorgeous colors, with grandiose thick-petalled chrysanthemums alternating with more elegant thin-petalled chrysanthemums. The bold expression of chrysanthemums suggests masculinity, while the beautiful coloring denotes femininity. The design is appropriate for an atsuita karaori costume worn by a noble person.
The Imperial Palace was adorned with chrysanthemums on September ninth, the Feast of the Chrysanthemum. The emperor offerd chrysanthemum sake to his subjects, and toasted to long life. During the Heian period, the chrysanthemum sake ritual was supplemented by kikuno kisewata, a practice based on an ancient conviction related to long life. Chrysanthemums were covered with wadded silk on the previous night, then the silk, imbued with the dew and scent of chrysanthemums, was used to wipe the body. Chrysanthemum viewing and cultivation became popular during the Edo period. The first chrysanthemum exhibition was held in 1715, at Maruyama, Kyoto. This exhibition subsequently became an annual event where chrysanthemum growers competed in producing new breeds. Kyoto became well-known for its chrysanthemums, especially large ones. This work is also interesting in that it provides a glimpse of cultural history.
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Noh robe for young nobleman's role with design of scattered chrysanthemums and linked squares Weft patterning (atsuita karaori) on white silk ground
Late eighteenth century
(Mid-Edo period)
Heirloom of Chigusaya
