Noh robe for young nobleman's role with design of a roughly woven fence and chrysanthemums Weft patterned silk (atuita karaori)
A diagonal line divides a square. One triangle is executed with gold thread while the other is expressed in various colored supplementary wefts. This design has great elegance and strength. The strength of the colors is outstanding as are the pattern elements. The design of the work is appropriate for an atsuita karaori costume because it is beautiful but strong and crisp.
This garment incorporates an interesting design approach by contrasting shapes such as the angular ground patterns against the circular chrysanthemums.
Since the Heian period, chrysanthemum plants had been tied to rough-woven fences, and people have always enjoyed viewing these displays. A pattern depicting this type of scene is said to have been most popular during the Kamakura period. This traditional design element has been handed down, and has developed into an established motif. The pattern on this garment is an example of this tradition. This work particularly shows that, depending on the treatment of colors and patterns, traditional motifs can become excellent designs, adapting to the trends of any era.
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Noh robe for young nobleman's role with design of a roughly woven fence and chrysanthemums Weft patterned silk (atuita karaori)
Early eighteenth century (Mid-Edo Period)
Heirloom of Chigusaya
