Furisode with design of six different patched patternsTie-dyeing on scarlet, blue, black, and purple silk crepe (chirimen)
This furisode is believed to have been produced in the third quarter of the 19th century. It comprises sections of highly ribbed silk crepe dyed in four colors with six types of patterns, which have been sewn together. The method to join irregularly shaped pieces of cloth of different colors and patterns is called nuiawase, kiritsugi or yosegire, all of which means "to sew together".
The idea of producing a piece of cloth of a particular size by sewing smaller sections together is believed to have developed naturally to supplement shortages of cloth or to utilize left-over pieces. This practical idea developed later, but the nuiawase technique was based on artistic objectives of creating a different pattern by joining pieces of cloth together. The resultant joined pieces of cloth were considered as one complete pattern, and this composition was also used for printed cotton (sarasa) and Yuzen dyeing.
This furisode was produced by someone fascinated with the pattern created by joining together one-meter lengths of cloth. Producing a work like this would probably have entailed considerable work and cost. Although an initial examination might suggest that this garment utilized this technique for economical reasons, the work is actually a very expensive one. It is a precious artifact that appears to illustrate the mentality of wealthy townspeople who were frustrated with their social position in the late Edo period feudal society.
It is believed that this garment was worn by a courtesan (keisei) of Shimabara in Kyoto.



