Kosode with design of wisteria, pine trees and craggy rocks Dyeing and embroidery on white figured silk satin (rinzu)
This kosode is believed to have been produced during the Genroku era at the end of the 1690s. The Onna Chohoki, published in 1692, indicated that "the fashion cycle has recently become so short that trends in dyeing completely change in five to eight years," suggesting innovative fashions were being sought during this period. As a result of developments in dyeing methods, multicolored garments became a popular trend. Improved techniques also allowed the creation of elaborate designs.
This kosode illustrates this new trend. The motifs include pine trees and wisteria arranged along rocks, symbolizing good fortune. Pine trees, withstanding severe climatic conditions and remaining evergreen, are considered a symbol of eternal youth. The wisteria, entangled with the pine tree, extends its tendrils in all directions, and has been considered a symbol of strong life. The pattern of rocks follows the Chinese convention of depicting natural rocks. The deformation of the pine trees into multi-petal led flowery patterns, the colored rocks, and the creases which are designed to add a more three-dimensional feel created by using brush work to imitate the wood-grain tie-dyeing (mokume) style, all reflect the trend of the time.
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Kosode with design of wisteria, pine trees and craggy rocks
Dyeing and embroidery on white figured silk satin (rinzu)
Late 1690s (Early Edo period)
