Kosode with design of lattice fence and floral roundels Stencil dyeing and embroidery on white figured silk satin (rinzu)
This kosode is believed to have been produced during the Tennna/Jokyo era in the 1680s. The design composition had changed from the Kambun pattern. Although some unpattened sections still remained, the pattern gradually spread across the entire kosode. The roundels of camellias, cherry blossoms, chrysanthemums and daffodils are used as a theme. The lattice motif, reminiscent of a bamboo fence, is arranged in other sections. The circular patterns of flowers were created with embroidery and stenciled fawn spot dyeing (suribitta), and the lattice painted with ink. The suribitta-decorated areas and embroidery thread have discolored to a considerable extent, and in contrast to the boldness of the black lattice, create a disharmonious composition. However, it is believed that when the kosode was first produced, the bright colored silk and gold embroidery thread imbued these circular floral patterns with a boldness that was complemented by the black lattice motif. Floral roundels were included in a 1687 fashion book Joyo-kimmo-zui, and in another published in the following year (Miyako-imayo-Yuzen-hiinagata). This design became the best-known Yuzen dyeing motif. The design was popular during the 1680s and 1690s.
This kosode design composition retains the flavor of the Kambun style. While principally using conventional techniques such as embroidery and suribitta in its expression of motifs, it also incorporates the new technique of painting with ink. This kosode is therefore believed to have been produced immediately before the period when Yuzen dyeing became popular.
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Kosode with design of lattice fence and floral roundels Stencil dyeing and embroidery on white figured silk satin (rinzu)
The 1680s (Early Edo period)
Heirloom of the Nabeshima Family, Saga
