Noh robe for nobleman, warrior and dancing woman's role with design of butterflies and wisteria hanging from baskets Supplementary weft patterning (nuitori) on purple silk gauze (choken)
Although choken (literally 'long silk') seems to have originally meant a type of silk textile, during the Muromachi period it referred to a type of costume worn by young boys from senior samurai families. Hitatare, court garments with trouser cuffs trailing behind, and hunting clothes, both of which were made of long lengths of silk material, came to be known simply as choken. Unfortunately, we have not discovered the nature of the 'long silk' material. No costumes of 'long silk' have survived.
It is believed that choken hitatare received from high-ranking samurai was originally used for Noh costumes, and gradually it came to typify Noh costumes.
The most typical choken costume found in Noh plays is made of rokin; silk gauze weaves alternating with three rows of plain weave and patterned with supplementary wefts of gold thread. There are a number of rokin patterns, the best known of which has large, conspicuous crest designs arranged on the center back, center back of both sleeves and on the right and left front chest area, with smaller patterns arranged at the base.
From this perspective, this garment is a typical choken Noh costume. Choken was often used by elegant female characters that danced on stage, and in costumes for elegant, quiet male characters. Choken patterns therefore tend to be elegant. This piece is a good example of this type of garment.
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Noh robe for nobleman, warrior and dancing woman's role with design of butterflies and wisteria hanging from baskets Supplementary weft patterning (nuitori) on purple silk gauze (choken)
Mid-nineteenth century
(Late Edo period)Heirloom
of the Takeo Family
