Kosode with design of scenes from The Tale of Genji Paste-resist dyeing (Yuzen) and embroidery on parti-colored silk crepe (chirimen)
This is an excellent piece believed to have been produced in the mid-18th century. The upper half of this beautiful parti-colored kosode is set in a lovely pink and has motifs of fans, snow crystals and pine-bark inspired diamonds arranged in white. Depicted within these motifs are black and white scenes from The Tale of Genji.
The titles of certain chapters from the epic novel ---- 'Hahakigi', 'Utsusemi', 'Wakamurasaki', 'Suetsumuhana', and 'Momijinoga' ---- are embroidered in silk and metallic threads. On the lower half, an elaborate beach landscape is dyed in the Yuzen style, creating a fine contrast with the upper section. Assuming that the landscape has a connection with the design of the upper half, it is believed to represent a scene from 'Akashi', the title of another chapter from The Tale of Genji. This identification is based on the depictions of sailing boats, a hut built from rushes on the beach and a building visible in the mountain.
Kamono Mabuchi and Motoori Norinaga are believed to have advocated the study of Japanese classical literature from around the mid-18th century. As a result, it was from around this time that the study of both classical literature and Japanese poems became more extensive. This period also witnessed the rising popularity of the Utai chanting of Noh, and an increasing number of citizens became interested in Noh.
It was in this setting that this kosode is believed to have been produced.



