Noh robe for woman's role with design of fans and swirling water (Kanze-mizu) Embroidery and metallic leaf imprint on parti-colored satin damask

This Noh robe, which employs the nuihaku technique, is thought to have been produced in the second quarter of the 19th century, during either the Bunsei or Tempo era. The work uses three different ground colors: red, white and blue arranged in a checked pattern, with swirling water motifs in applied metallic leaf. The gold fans lend considerable elegance and gorgeousness to the work. The fans contain elaborately embroidered depictions of different plant and flower motifs.

This robe gets its name (nuihaku) from the decorative techniques of embroidery (nui) and metallic leaf imprint (haku). Nuihaku is often used for female roles, when it is worn tied around the waist without passing the arms through the sleeves. Beneath the costume the actor wears a garment called a surihaku, while a choken, karaori, or mizu-goromo is worn over nuihaku. Thus, only the hem of the nuihaku would be visible. However, beautiful embroidery and metallic leaf imprint often cover the entire Noh costume, resulting in a beautiful Noh costume, like the karaori and atuita.

This work is one of the best examples of the wonderful heritage of Noh costumes that incorporate elaborate techniques and splendid coloring.

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Noh robe for woman's role with design of fans and swirling water (Kanze-mizu)
Embroidery and metallic leaf im print on parti-colored satindamask

The second quarter of the nineteenth century (Late Edo period) Heirloom of the Date Family